This is Duolingo, a language-learning website/app that deserves some serious recognition. It offers over 10 languages for English speakers, as well as courses for non-English speakers around the world, and they’re in the process of adding more.
But wait, I don’t want to do any more schoolwork! Not to worry little one, Duolingo is actually more like a game. You can compete with friends, and earn “lingots” (which are basically Duolingo money) to buy power-ups, extra activities, and bonus skills - like Flirting.
I’m already taking a language, what do I need this for?
It’s not really a secret that most school language courses (in America, anyway) suck and only teach you to speak the language at about a third grader’s level. Which is why Duolingo is so freaking awesome.
Teachers can’t give every student individualized attention, but Duolingo can. If you’re not learning the way you want to or as much as you want to in the classroom, Duolingo is a really great resource. It’s easy, tailored to you, and really effective.
Duolingo tracks your progress and reminds you when you haven’t studied for a while or need a refresher on something. Already semi-fluent in a language? No problem, just take a shortcut to more advanced subjects or test out of the lesson.
The lessons start with the basics (he, she, hello, thank you, etc) and move up to harder stuff. Duolingo focuses on vocabulary first, so you can learn the language and then the grammar that goes with it - much simpler than the system most schools use. It also tracks the number of words you’ve learned and how well you know them.
And you don’t even have to write out the flashcards!
Duolingo is perfect for reviewing everything you forgot over the summer or giving you the extra help you need. And if you’re trying to learn a language on your own, it’s fantastic - you don’t have to create your own lessons. Whether you’re trying to learn your second, third, or fifth language, I seriously recommend Duolingo.
Okay, what else?
Duolingo also has discussion boards, where you can ask for help with a hard lesson, make new friends, watch for updates, and share your achievements.
Even better is the Immersion feature. It won’t send you to Spain or France, but it’s pretty awesome. Duolingo takes real articles from the internet, which users translate. You can translate articles from your native language into the language you’re learning or vice versa, which gives you more experience and makes the Internet more universal.
You can suggest new languages and track Duolingo’s progress in creating new courses. Bilinguals (older than 13) can help to create these courses. Duolingo has a long list of courses that can be contributed to, like Punjabi, Hebrew, and Vietnamese. Oh, and Dothraki, Klingon, Sindarin, and Esperanto.
And the best part? IT’S COMPLETELY FREE.
If you love languages or just want to pass French class this year, USE DUOLINGO. Download the app and practice a language while you wait for the bus instead of playing Angry Birds!
Coolest app I’ve ever downloaded.
started my wadanohara cosplay………… the sewing machine is going to kill me but im glad there’s help things online
I received an ask from @kpoke regarding how to draft a collar and facing for a sailor uniform so I made some quick sketches on how to draft your own. (btw it’s 1:40AM right now so sorry for the really bad drawings lol…)
This method works for any type of bodice you want to add the collar to, so you can use this on a dress or a blouse if you wanted to. For more details, read below:
Preferably, you’ll need to have already fitted your bodice by making a muslin. Take the 3 following measurements: 1) original collar to new stopping point on the CF line, 2) collar width, 3) back collar length. (marked in the above photos)
1) depends on your design, since some uniforms have deeper collars than others (ex. Haruhi),
2) is usually the length from collar to shoulder minus around 1.5cm, and
3) is usually the distance down to the middle of the shoulder blades, or around the under arm point.
Draw in or remove all seam allowances from your bodice pattern pieces (this is usually 5/8” on commercial patterns, if you’re using one). These are your stitching lines and what we want to use to draft the collar and facing.
On the CF line of your front bodice piece (this might be the cut on fold line), measure down from the neck line the measurement you took for (1). Using a curved ruler or freehand, draw a slightly curved line from the point where the collar meets the shoulder to the point you just measured. The neck line should hit the base of the neck on the back piece of the bodice, if it’s too low then raise it to that point. Otherwise, leave the back piece alone. This is your new neck line. Cut it out of your muslin and try it back on to see if it fits. You should be able to slip your head in and out of it with no problem.
After that, tape the two pattern pieces together at the shoulder stitching lines (see photo above). Trace the neck line out on a piece of paper. Following the CB line (the cut on fold line of your back bodice), measure down (3) and trace out that line. On the shoulder line, measure out (2) and mark that point. Using these measurements as a guide, draw out the collar shape you want. What I usually do is cut out the neck hole and pin the paper to my dress form (you can pin it to your shirt too or just hold it up to your body) and draw in the shape I want with a pen, then take it off and smooth it out with a ruler afterwards.
For the facing, measure in 1.5”~2” (width is personal preference really) from the neck line of your pattern pieces and mark. You can curve the point at the bottom or square it off if you want. That’s it!
Oh, and you’ll have to add seam allowances back to the pattern pieces you drafted. Pick a seam allowance you’re comfortable with sewing (5/8” or something else). Add this SA to all necklines on each pattern piece (this includes the bodice pieces, since you drafted the neckline!), as well as the shoulder lines for both facing pieces. For the outer edges of the collar, I usually add 1/4” SA because that’s the width of my presser foot but you can add whatever you’re comfortable with sewing. Don’t add anything to the CF or CB lines, these will be your cut on fold lines.
Hopefully this helps! If anything’s confusing, please send me an ask and I’ll try to reply as soon as possible. I’ll be putting this info in my tutorial later too.
(btw, the updated school uniform tutorial will be delayed until after AX…sorry T_T I got an eye infection so I’m most likely dropping all of my uniforms for AX and doing eyepatch cosplays instead, which means I won’t be able to take any construction photos. If you need urgent help before AX then feel free to message me too!)
*IMPORTANT* If you got here from Google, thanks for reading! I hope this tutorial helps you. If you have any questions regarding this tutorial, please read my FAQ page first before sending me any questions. Half the time you’ll find the answer to your question faster than if you wait for my response. Thanks!
» MATERIALS GUIDE «
BONUS POST: How to draft the collar/facing
Hi! Some lovely anons asked me how I make my sailor uniforms for my DR costumes, so I decided to finally make a post about it! For reference, I use patterns from two Japanese sewing books: Cosmode’s 仮想衣装 and すぐに作れるcos衣装. The latter has a fitted seifuku pattern that I use for all of my Danganronpa costumes in order to achieve the flared effect around the hips! I pattern my own pleated skirts, which I’ll explain in the next post.
!IMPORTANT! Before you ask me where to buy these books, read this post about Japanese patterns! They’re not beginner friendly at all and I can’t recommend them to anyone who isn’t reasonably advanced at sewing, so buy at your own risk!
I can’t promise I’ll be able to explain everything relevant since I’m assuming basic sewing and pattern knowledge in order to keep this as brief as possible, so please send me an ask if you have any further questions! If you have any character-specific questions, feel free to send me an ask as well!
Also, as a fair warning, I use a fair amount of tools that people might not have on hand, such as a rotary cutter. I include suggestions on how to get the same outcome without those tools, but I can’t promise it’ll be as neat or look the same.
how to sew a sailor uniform top with a side zipper